Wednesday 26 March 2014

#27: Kaide Sushi - February 28, 2014

Before we left Montreal, a few people warned me not to become a "Sushi Snob" while in Vancouver. If the upcoming rant makes me a Sushi Snob, so be it.

It doesn't make sense that Montreal sushi is so bad in comparison to Vancouver. Many people say that Vancouver has better sushi because the fish is freshly caught off the coast. I don't know what kind of fish you can catch off the West Coast, but the fish isn't going from the water to the restaurant in a short enough amount of time for it to make any material difference. Regardless of where it is caught, sushi-grade seafood is flash frozen (or so the internet tells me) and could sit frozen for a while until it ends up on your plate. All that to say, why does Vancouver seem to have better sushi than Montreal if both can in theory get access to the same grade of seafood? I'm going to leave it at that, because the only other explanations are the quality and experience of the chefs and Vancouver's proximity to Japan in comparison to Montreal...I don't know if talking about that is racist, so I'll just leave it out.

There are a handful of sushi restaurants on the Top 50 list. The highest rated one is Miku at #5, but I'm saving that one for my birthday. I'm going to go with the Omakase option, which apparently is a Japanese phrase meaning "I'll leave it to you!" It will be 100% chef's choice, and comes with a high price tag. Not really the best spot for a random Friday evening dinner.

Near the midpoint of the list is Kaide Sushi, located in Yaletown. We walked there, and it is pretty far down Richard Street. About 3 blocks further, and we'd be knee-deep in False Creek. There isn't much else in the area besides some sleepy condo buildings. I think that fits the criteria of being a "hidden gem."

We were greeted and seated by a lovely waitress. I wish I had asked for her name, so I could directly praise her on here. I don't often start a review off by talking about the staff, but in this case I'll do it now before I forget. She was extremely friendly and appropriately chatty. She asked us where we were from and what we thought about the food in Vancouver, and she made great recommendations of what we should order which didn't disappoint. She was petite and Asian. I don't know what other details I can put out there to identify her, but she was wonderful.

By the time 52 weeks of this culinary adventure are over, I will have learned the lesson that when consuming sashimi, I need to start writing down what I am served. This is the second time that we've had fantastic sashimi and I didn't bother to note what was on the plate. The menus usually say something like "Sashimi Platter," and you get whatever is available. Therefore, I couldn't rely on the menu to remind me. In the pictures there are some obvious ones like shrimp, scallop, tuna, salmon and uni that can be easily identified by some distinguishing characteristics. Looking back at the picture of the Kaide Supreme Sashimi there are two different pieces of white fish that I can't figure out. In any case, it was all delicious. Each piece had a distinctly different texture and taste, and there was not too much of any particular type. I've ordered sashimi platters and received filet mignon-sized steaks of raw fish. No one wants to feel like they need a fork and knife to eat sashimi. Kaide's sashimi was delicate and beautifully sliced into perfect little bites. Evidently you can't be picky when ordering a "mystery platter" like this, and you really shouldn't be. The chefs know what they're doing, and they'll give you their very best. Having said that, try to slip in a word about getting uni. We've had it before Kaide, and the waitress warned us that it was a very unique texture. It is sort of tough on the outside, but its butter in the inside and melts in your mouth.

Following the sashimi, we had the Roll Combo:  the 501 roll, half a California roll, and half a Manhattan roll. It was 13 pieces in total. The 501 roll had 3 kinds of fish (salmon, crab and tuna I believe), and 3 kinds of vegetables (cucumber, avocado and asparagus). Surprisingly, the texture of asparagus works in sushi. The roll was a little large for my liking. I prefer to not look like a squirrel when I'm chewing sushi. The California roll was traditional with crab, avocado and cucumber. This was the first time I've had a Manhattan roll, with salmon, avocado, cucumber and cream cheese. All three were delicious. I rarely think much of sushi rice, but Kaide's had a light texture and flavour that made me notice it. It incorporated well with the other fresh ingredients, and wasn't just a starchy filler or a binder.

We were still a little hungry after those rolls, and we spent about 15 minutes arguing about what we should order next. We had settled on the Venus, but asked the waitress what she would recommend. I can't seem to find the roll on the menu Kaide has posted on their website. The waitress mentioned that they do not have a deep fryer on site, so they don't do tempura. Instead they put cornflakes in this particular roll to make it crunchy. Sounds strange right? It totally works! The texture isn't quite the same as tempura and neither is the flavour, but this was our favourite roll. It also had avocado and shrimp in it, but the crunch was the star of the show. This is a must-order next time we go.

It is rare that we don't order dessert, but I've never been to a sushi place that had memorable dessert. We skipped dessert at Kaide in favour of Thierry on Alberni (review to come soon). I'm tempted to give Kaide the title of our "Go-To Sushi Place." The price point was very reasonable for the quality of sushi. The rolls didn't cost that much more than Sushi Shop's crap-in-a-box. Everything was prepared in front of us (we sat at the bar) and tasted fresh and light. It is sort of a hole in the wall but once you find it you're going to wish you skipped lunch and breakfast and you'll want to spend the evening.

The Supreme Sashimi Platter!
The Roll Combo
Yes, those are cornflakes and really big tiger prawns.
 THE STATS - Out of 10

Taste: 8.5 - Everything was so yummy! Even after getting your fill, you're going to be craving more, and anticipating the next time you go there.
Creativity: 7 - Most of the rolls were very traditional, and you would surely find something like a California roll at any sushi restaurant. I bumped up the creativity score because of the way they get around not having a deep fryer with the Corn Flakes. Sometimes weird works.
Service: 8 - Our waitress was absolutely wonderful. She was perky and friendly, without being overbearing and obnoxious. She was a genuinely sweet girl, who was quick to deliver our orders, and wasn't shy to make recommendations. Overall, service was speedy and effective.
Bang for your buck: 8 - The reality is that seafood is expensive. Sashimi-grade seafood is even more expensive. You're eating pretty much everything raw, except for maybe the shrimp and the rice. It has to be good quality ingredients. For what you're getting, the price is very reasonable.
Overall experience: 8.5 - It was a great casual Friday night dinner.

Would I go back? Yes. I would go back every Friday for the rest of my earthly days if I could.
Who would I recommend it to? Adults, any group size, casual occasions. It's not a very romantic spot, and it doesn't pretend to be. Don't take your wife here for your anniversary, but do take her here to give her a break from the kitchen. I don't know anyone who makes home-made sushi on a remotely regular basis, so it's always a nice treat. It's not the place for your picky friends; either you're a sushi person or you're not. The space is not huge, but tables are well spaced and can accommodate big-ish groups (6-8 people). Going with a big group is very different from going as a couple, because you could order 1-2 different rolls per person, and share the variety. It did feel like a very lively place, so go get a bunch of friend together and order a few beers and saki!
For what occasion? Casual. Group birthday celebrations, regular Friday night get-together, that type of thing.
It was better than: Montreal sushi.
It wasn't as good as: TBD - we're going to Miku in a few weeks, so we'll see.
Expect: Fast service and a great variety of traditional and unique menu items. Also expect to not immediately find the place. If you think you've passed it, keep walking. You'll eventually find it.

Top 50 Worthy? It's solid sushi, and I got the impression that it is consistently amazing. I have no hesitation in labelling them as a Top 50 restaurant.

#9. Via Tevere Pizzaria - February 22, 2014

These next few paragraphs are just observations. I'm not going to make some long-winded socio-economic or political analysis out of those observations. It's more of a "I'm just saying..." kind of thing.

When we looked up Via Tevere on GoogleMaps, it didn't seem that far away. We would have to walk a few blocks and then hop on the 20 bus for about 20 minutes. When we got on the bus, we noticed that there was a supervisor there. Not suspicious; we assumed that he was evaluating the driver, or that that the driver was new or something like that. After a few stops, we noticed that the people getting on were not showing bus passes or paying the fare. The supervisor was just waving at them to get on. Soon the bus was packed with people of all ages (including kids) wearing tattered clothes and looking like they hadn't bathed in weeks. The bus reeked of alcohol and a lot of the passengers could barely stand. We stuck out like sore thumbs. Suddenly, we arrived at a strip of abandoned buildings, with hundreds of people standing, sitting and laying in the streets. There were shopping carts of full plastic bags, tarps on the ground with random items for sale, and bottles in paper bags being passed around. Nearly everyone got off the bus at the next stop.

One block to the west, we were in downtown Vancouver, in an area that looked similar to where we live. Montreal has it's share of sketchy neighbourhoods, but I was shocked as how sudden the change was and how concentrated it was, and just as shocked at how quickly everything seemed to go right back to "normal" after that stop.  

Montreal has a lot of people in this situation. I would probably cross 15 of them between my doorstep and work. There is no particular area where they are and aren't. In Vancouver, if you never ventured out in that specific direction, you would be totally ignorant to the fact they exist. It's just different than I'm used to... turns out we had just crossed through what is referred to as East Hastings.

Eventually we got to the corner of Commercial Drive and William Street. We got off the bus and walked 2 blocks to Via Tevere. During that walk we were unsure if we were in the right place. Sure enough, the tiny dinning room was there. There were a few people waiting outside, but they were parties of 4 or 6. The pair of us were seated after about 10 minutes. There were only 10 tables or so. The beautiful blue-tiled pizza oven and prep station took up nearly as much space as the seating area.

We knew what we came for, and it wasn't apps and salads. We looked at the tables to either side of us, and not one couple was sharing a single pizza. It helped justify our pre-adventure decision to each order a different pizza. Each pizza is big enough to be generously shared between 2 people, maybe even 3 if you're a group of light-weights. However, I strongly recommend against it. You can take whatever is left over to go, and we ate it the following morning. It might have been even better next day.

I ordered the Filetto: San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic and basil. I wanted to see how well they could pull off a very simple Neapolitan pizza. Stephen ordered the Capricciosa: tomatoes, mozzarella, prosciutto, salame, artichokes, mushrooms and olives. Basically he ordered Via Tevere's version of "all dressed" pizza.

From my seat I could see them preparing our pizzas, from hand-stretching the dough, to topping them, to slipping them into their 900-degree wood-burning oven. Considering the menu say the pizzas only spend 90 seconds in the oven, we were waiting a fairly long time for them. We ordered drinks while we waited. Stephen ordered a Negroni (his drink of choice... I can't stand them) and I ordered something lemon-y with basil in it. I can't recall what it was called. They were both very reasonably priced and expertly-mixed.

After about 25 minutes of staring at pizzas being prepped right next to us, ours arrived! They smelled and looked glorious. GLORIOUS! There must be some hardcore ventilation system there because we never noticed the intoxicated smell of anyone else's plates before ours arrived. I briefly picked up my folk and knife to eat my first slice, but quickly ditched them. This pizza is definitely meant to be eaten with your hands. The thin, crisp and chewy dough allows for it, without the topping slipping off the end onto your plate.

Everyone's had pizza before. Fresh, frozen, delivery, pizzas of every kind. For that reason, it's extremely difficult to describe how delicious Via Tevere's was, and why it was. The Filetto was incredible. Never underestimate the power of fresh and authentic ingredients that are well treated. It's an easy thing to screw up, but when done well, are phenomenal. The tomatoes were tangy but sweet, the cheese was creamy and salty, and the slightly-wilted basil was a kick of freshness. Stephen's Capricciosa was everything but the kitchen sink, just as we expected it would be. It had every flavour and texture you could want on a pizza, without it tasting greasy and heavy.

You have to experience Via Tevere for yourself to truly appreciate what I'm trying to say. All the ingredients are put on the pizza in their rawest possible form. Obviously the artichokes are boiled or steamed and of course the prosciutto and salami are properly cured, but besides that, nothing else is done to the toppings. Simple and delicious on their own. Go there, and find out!

For dessert, we ordered the Tris di Dolci: a trio of their 3 desserts. On the right was the Torta Caprese, a gluten-free chocolate cake with almonds and walnuts, and a splash of orange liquor. It was our least favourite. It wasn't "rich" like the menu described it. It was quite dry and bland unfortunately. In the centre was the Graffe con Nutella, essentially a donut with drizzled Nutella and sprinkled with cinnamon-sugar. It was our favourite of the three. It's hard to go wrong with a freshly fried donut and Nutella. To the far right was the Tiramisu. It was pretty traditional, and by "traditional" I don't mean that fake crap made with whipped cream and tea cookies drenched in Taster's Choice instant coffee. They have a lot of Tiramisu's like that in Montreal, and I was under the impression that I didn't like Tiramisu because of it. This one was the real deal with very rich mascarpone cream and bitter-sweet espresso-dipped ladyfingers. I highly recommend that you exercise self-control when consuming your pizza, and stop with enough space left for dessert!

As far as atmosphere goes, things are constantly moving. Tables turn quickly (which means you won't wait too long at the door), they are pretty close together (the couple next to us kept commenting on how good our desserts looked), and wait staff squeezes their way between the tables to delivery the hot pizzas (now you see them, now you don't). It is a great place to sit down, eat, then get up and go. I wouldn't plan to go with a crowd or with the intention of spending the evening chatting away. The staff was nice and polite, but not memorable. They just did what they had to do. I don't think these observations are negatives, but rather are inherent given how small the place is.

The beautiful tiled wood-burning oven. Apparently a direct import from Napoli!
Our cocktails
The Filetto
The Capricciosa
The dessert trio!
THE STATS - Out of 10

Taste: 8.5 - Like I said before, "GLORIOUS," fresh and simple.
Creativity: 4 - I can't give them much more than that, because it's Neapolitan pizza. It's creative only in the sense that it is being very well recreated in North America.
Service: 5 - Our pizzas were a little slow to arrive, but otherwise the service was nice. I put a lot of weight on service, since it can change the dynamics of a meal entirely. The service was unmemorable, so I couldn't give it higher.
Bang for your buck: 7 - The price of the pizzas were a little high considering the ingredients, and I'm sure the place is making tons of money on those margins. Having said that, we did take half of each pizza home and ate it for breakfast the next day. The dessert are a good value though at $12 for all 3 options.
Overall experience: 8 - The food was amazing and definitely worth the trip out there. Having eaten a lot of pizza both on the East and West Coast, there aren't many places you can get pizza like Via Tevere's.

Would I go back? Absolutely. On a night that we are experiencing a little cabin fever and have time to make the trek out there, I would definitely go back.
Who would I recommend it to? Couples, even if one or both of you are picky eaters. The size of the restaurant, the volume level, and the proximity to other tables causes you to become a little anti-social. Go with your significant other who has been your significant other for a while, because it will be a pretty silent dinner. That can be awkward with someone you are just getting to know. I wouldn't recommend it to even small groups because no matter when you go, there will be a line. It is much easier to get a table for 2 than a table for 4. Please don't bring your kids. If your kids are hungry for Via Tevere pizza, park outside and take it to go. No one wants your stroller crammed between 2 tables, or your kids screaming echoed through the joint.
For what occasion? Basic dinner out. Nothing fancy. It's not quite special-occasion-worthy.
It was better than: The pizza was better than Italian Kitchen's.
It wasn't as good as: Pizza Pinnoli and Il Focalaio in Montreal; I know not the same style, but very few pizzas can compete with Pinnoli and Focalaio.

Top 50 Worthy? Yeah. They have an edge because everyone goes there for great, authentic pizza, and they have mastered it. At a typical Italian restaurant, one person could order pizza, another order pasta, another veal scallopini, and another a risotto. Chances are that not all 4 are going to be amazing, and attempting to do 4 things well instead of just 1 often doesn't work out. At Via Tevere, there is pasta and antipasto plates on the menu, but I didn't see anyone actually order it. The focus is definitely a speciality-within-a-speciality, and they do it damn good enough for Top 50.

Sunday 2 March 2014

Italian Kitchen - February 16, 2014

So here is how we ended up at Italian Kitchen.

As I mentioned in a previous post, on the second day of my new job, my boss treated me to Trattoria in Kitslano. Trattoria is one of many members of the Glowbal Group, including Coast. As you may remember, I was not at all pleased by the mains that were served to us at Coast. After I write up my blog posts, I usually post "THE STATS" portion of the post as a review on TripAdvisor. However, for Coast I just couldn't restrain myself from copying and pasting the entire post to TripAdvisor. I felt that strongly about the disappointing mains, and it was a completely honest review.

"Tara A," a Guest Relations Manger, left a response to my review asking me to email to discuss my meal with them directly. I wrote them a very polite note about my experience, and received a response from Coast's Executive Chef Pedro Gonzalez. I very much appreciated being contacted by a Chef, instead of a Maitre D' or front manager who really knows very little about the food preparation and execution process. He explained the cooking and quality assurance processes for the two dishes we had that night. I re-iterated that regardless of what controls were in place, I was just not satisfied with the dishes. I offered Chef Gonzalez the opportunity to offer us some sort of compensation for the sub-par mains, and unsurprisingly he did.

Here is why that is unsurprising. Some people think that it is impolite and just plain wrong to send food back to the kitchen, or to ask to be compensated for a poor meal. Consider the following example. I'm an accountant at a Big 4 firm. Say a client asks me to prepare a formal memo on a particular topic, with beautiful, colourful diagrams, and reliable source references. If I come to them a week later with a report written in sloppy point-form slang, a coffee cup stain on the diagrams, and references to Wikipedia, how do you think they'd feel? Do you think they'd pay me for it? Don't you think they'd tell me to re-do it, if not fire me? It wasn't what they ordered, and I didn't do my job. If your food does not look and taste as good as it did on the menu, it wasn't what you ordered and the kitchen staff didn't do their job. It's the exact same thing.

A few days later, we received a pair of Glowbal gift cards in the mail courtesy of Chef Gonzalez and Coast. Chefs and restaurant managers listen up! Glowbal and Chef Gonzalez are doing it right. That is how you properly handle a situation where a customer is not satisfied. 

By now you've gathered that we didn't go back to Coast to use them. It was a rainy Sunday evening and we really wanted some (hopefully) delicious comfort food, so I suggested that we use the Glowbal gift cards at Italian Kitchen. I really wanted Stephen to taste the epic Fusili Lunghi I had at Trattoria, and Italian Kitchen has the same owners and menu. We promise we will go to back to Coast eventually, and I have no doubt they will redeem themselves when we do.

Alright, so on to the good stuff: what we ate.

You can't go to Italian Kitchen and not order the Burrata & _________. It doesn't matter which one you pick; I'm sure they are all amazing. We ordered the Burrata & Pancetta, which was on a crostini with corn, leeks, sage, and corn nuts. Though the portion is small (2 crostinis) and could only be shared between the two of us, the savoury accoutrements and creamy fresh burrata is an amuse-bouche to die for! You'll never want to eat plain old mozzarella again!

We also ordered the Bruschetta Sampler. This app can easily be shared between a group of 4. It consists of one piece of flat bread topped with chickpea hummus, tomato basil bruschetta, pesto, and buffalo mozzarella. The flat bread is cut in a way that there are 16 generous pieces, 4 with each of the toppings. First off, anything on that fresh and yeasty flat bread would have been amazing. My favourites were the hummus and the pesto. Since we would later be eating pasta and pizza, we were very grateful for the toppings to contrast all the carbs.

Obviously I ordered the Fusilli Lunghi since I had raved about it, and Stephen ordered the Prosciutto di Parma pizza. The fusilli was good, but it just wasn't the same as at Trattoria! I even ate it again at Trattoria this past week to be sure I wasn't crazy. It is definitely much better at Trattoria. I think it has to do with the ingredients ratio. At Trattoria, the ratio is about 2 parts fresh pasta with cream sauce, 2 parts mushrooms, and 1 part pancetta. At Italian Kitchen, it was more like 3, 1, and barely there pancetta respectively. I was a little disappointed that I had gone on and on about it being the best pasta dish of my life, and the Italian Kitchen version was nothing special. All that to say...the Fusilli Lunghi at Trattoria is EPIC. At Italian Kitchen, not as much.

On to the pizza. The dough was not what we expected. It looked similar to the flat bread dough we had with the bruscetta, but it was a little more dense and chewy. We also expected the crust to be thin and crispy, but it was thicker and soft. Despite all that, it was damn good pizza. Every component had its place. The proscuitto was salty and meaty, the burrata was creamy and smooth, the arugula was fresh and bitter, and tomato sauce just brought it all together and made it comfort food. It was balanced and "light" comfort food at that, since the ingredients aren't piled on for inches high. Lucky for us, it left us with room for dessert!

A few years ago, "salted" in a dessert description grossed me out. These days I've changed my tune to "You had me at 'salted.'" Having said that, I didn't get too far down the dessert menu since "salted" is the first word on it. Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart...chocolate ganache, salted caramel sauce, walnut streusel, and Earl Grey gelato. The pieces of the dessert were pretty much as described on the menu. You know the reaction when you go "Yep, that gelato is definitely Earl Grey flavoured." It was like that. Each component was delicious and near perfection on its own, but all together a crunchy element was missing. There was a spiral of hard candy which may have been intended to be crunch, but though pretty and crafty, it was impractical and didn't quite fit. Besides the lack of crunch, it was a great salty and sweet end to the meal.

Each of Glowbal's restaurants has a list of great promotions. My favourite is Trattoria's $11 Pasta Tuesdays (any of their pastas for $11! In some cases, that's 50% off!). We took advantage of not 1, but 3 promotions going on when we went during the late-afternoon Sunday. Firstly, we got 2 rounds of the $5 cocktail of the day (available daily from 3-6pm). They were very well mixed cocktails and they definitely don't stiff you on the booze. Secondly, each of the appetizers were 50% off (available daily from 3-6pm). Thirdly, we took advantage of the Alberni St. Early Bird special, which gives you a free 2nd entrée when you order 2 apps and an entrée (available daily from 4-6:30pm). The combination of all these specials definitely allowed our post-Coast gift cards to go much further than expected!

My biggest regret about our dining experience was not ordering off the "Art of Sharing" section of the menu. Near the end of our meal, I saw a couple at a neighbouring table order a very generous antipasto platter and pasta platter. It was more like a trough with mountains of 4 different kinds of pasta. A trough! Of pasta! It was one of the most glorious things I had ever seen, but I have no idea how the two of them could possibly consume that much food. Had it been more than the two of us, I think we would have been game.

Here is another reason why Italian Kitchen is awesome. They sent us a Thank You card! I have never gotten anything like that before, and I'd go back just because someone took the time to show their appreciation for our patronage. Nice touch Italian Kitchen!

The delicious $5 cocktails
The bruschetta sampler
The burrata and prosciutto
The side by side
Our mains!
And the salty-sweet, lacing some crunch, finale
`
Nice touch from the Italian Kitchen staff!
THE STATS - Out of 10

Taste: 7.5 - Most of what we had was fantastic. I downgraded them from a 9 because the Fusilli Lunghi was just not as amazing as Trattoria, and the dessert needed a little crunch.
Creativity: 6.5 - It is tough to give them higher in this category because it is close to traditional Italian food. Some little twists are taken, but the food isn't quite innovative or daring.
Service: 7.5 - The service was quite friendly and knowledgeable about the menu, and we were served at a perfect pace. Also, the Thank You card was a really nice touch.
Bang for your buck: 8.5 - Definitely check out what promotions are going when you go. The menu is already reasonably priced for what you're getting, but no one ever complained about getting a discount. Especially since the specials are likely for menu items you would be ordering anyway.
Overall experience: 8 - It was just what we needed that rainy Sunday.

Would I go back? Yes. I feel like you can rely on the food and service to be consistently well prepared and presented, which allows the restaurant to lend itself to any occasion, or no occasion.
Who would I recommend it to? Groups of adults (up to 8 comfortably), couples, and families with teen-aged children (I'm still against bringing young children to restaurants). The food is traditional enough that even picky people (including moody teens) will find something they will enjoy. The food is casual, unpretentious and shareable, which makes it great for family and/or friends gatherings.
For what occasion? I wouldn't take someone on a first date here, but any other occasion is fair game.
It was better than: Bistro 101, The Fish House in Stanley Park, Coast (take 1 of Coast anyways)
It wasn't as good as: l'Abattoir, Via Tevere, Trattoria (for the Fusilli Lunghi)

Top 50 Worthy? I think so. The food has the potential to bring Italian Kitchen into the Top 50 within the next year. I think the menu, ambiance and service can easily create a loyal customer-base that will have patrons coming back again and again.